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Field Recording: Microphones to Tibet

Greg Simmons treks through Tibet and Nepal recording musicians, monks, wild animals, and whatever else catches his ear...

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18 May 2005

The last time I did any serious travelling was in the early ‘90s, a time when two plus two always equalled four and the world seemed a much safer place. I trekked through Northern Thailand on an elephant, hiked across the Andes to The Lost City of the Incas, fed entire generations of mosquitoes in the Amazon, and got skilfully fleeced in Argentina. But my best memories of those journeys were the sounds, from the tuk-tuk chaos of Khao San Road, Bangkok, to the endless renditions of ‘El Condor El Passo’ performed nightly in every damn restaurant in Cusco. I often regretted not having any recording equipment with me…

Things have changed a lot since then. Two plus two still equals four (except for extremely large values of two, according to my friend Randolph’s thinkgeek.com t-shirt), but the world doesn’t seem so safe any more. Nonetheless, I found myself harbouring an irrepressible urge to travel to exotic places and record their sounds.

There are many exotic places in the world, but Tibet has topped my list for a long time. Nestled on a high altitude plateau in the Himalayas, it’s often referred to as ‘the land of snows’ and ‘the roof of the world’. It is also, of course, the home of Tibetan Buddhism, singing bowls, and the harmonic chanting that most people associate with Buddhist monks. Plenty of recording potential! So I moved out of home, rugged up and headed for the land of snows, stopping in Nepal on the way.

IMMERSION

The plan was to immerse myself in the budget backpacker culture, carry the recording rig with me at all times, and record whatever caught my attention. Such spontaneous field recordings often produce great results, but required a rig I could carry all day and be ready to record at a moment’s notice. Portability, reliability and light weight were the key words. There’s nothing as portable or lightweight as a MiniDisc Walkman or a handheld MP3 recorder, but both of those formats use perceptual coding – a digital model of the ear/brain system that strips out the audio information it believes the average listener won’t hear, or more appropriately, won’t miss. To my ears it often sounds flat and two-dimensional, suitable only for ring tones, door bells and greeting cards. Fortunately, MiniDisc and MP3 are both interim technologies in lieu of sufficient bandwidth and storage space, and the sooner we’re done with them the better.

I’d hate to return home with a bunch of unique and hard-earned recordings, regrettably made in a low-res interim format with limited options for the future. If I was going to the expense and trouble of travelling to these places, communicating in foreign languages and negotiating payments, the recordings needed to be future-proof, and there’s currently nothing as future-proof as a 24-bit/96k linear PCM recording. It far exceeds the quality requirements for CD, it’s ideally suited to DVD release, and, from a portability point of view, it’s far more space efficient than sampling at 192k (a pointless exercise, in my opinion).

For reasons best left unexplained, I did not have the headphones with me when I stumbled across this young girl and boy busking on the street, in Lhasa, Tibet. But I recorded them anyway. The result? I ought to record this way more often! (pictures: Alistair Bray)

TAKE A LISTEN...

For those interested in hearing these recordings, I have posted two MP3 compilations on AudioTechnology’s website (go: www.audiotechnology.com.au and look for the link). These have been compiled from the raw files, the only processing being: a) MS decoding, with an MS ratio of 1:1 applied globally throughout both compilations; b) gain adjustments to maintain a reasonably consistent average level between individual files; and c) some files have a high pass filter applied. Oh, and, of course, the ‘ crapola obscura’ degradation layer of MP3 processing. Apart from that, the sounds are presented in their ‘warts and all’ form, with no additional EQ, compression, reverberation or other effects. Please note that these recordings are placed there as a supporting component of this story only. You are not allowed to modify or otherwise use them in any way, shape or form, beyond listening, without my prior permission. (Just because they’re free does not mean you can do what you want with them.)

NOTHING VENTURED…

With MiniDisc and MP3 recorders failing the sound quality and future-proof tests, the only sensible option was my Nagra V 24/96 portable hard disk recorder. It wasn’t virtually weightless like a MiniDisc Walkman or MP3 recorder, but it was still light enough to be carried around all day. With a 40GB removable USB2 hard drive, 10 hours of battery life, a 20 second pre-record buffer, and fully professional connections and specifications throughout, I was happy to forego the weightlessness. My initial concerns over taking such a valuable tool into unfamiliar territory ultimately gave in to the old adage ‘nothing ventured, nothing gained’…

The choice of microphones was the subject of much thought. I had my favourites for recording in the concert halls and churches around Sydney, but this was different. I would be recording sounds against the sonic backdrop of their environment, such as a musician on a noisy street, rather than the reverberation of a concert hall or church. I needed a stereo technique that offered some control in mastering so I could alter the perspective of the recording, and I needed microphones that sounded extremely natural and were capable of being used outdoors. I didn’t want the isolation that a shotgun microphone offers, but I did want the ability to focus on a central image.

I eventually settled on an MS pair using Schoeps’ CCM4Lg cardioid and CCM8Lg bidirectional microphones, shockmounted in a Rycote windscreen with pistol-grip handle. I chose the Schoeps for their particularly natural sound, primarily due to their excellent off-axis polar response – an important characteristic of microphone design that many manufacturers seem to have forgotten, or, in the case of some of the newer brands, possibly never understood in the first place…

The main reason for choosing the MS technique was not for its mono compatibility, but because a sound in the centre of the stereo soundstage is directly on-axis to the M microphone’s capsule, rather than 45 degrees or more off-axis to two separate capsules (as it is with any other coincident stereo technique). This alleviated any further concerns about the microphone’s off-axis response, and avoided the need for a matched pair of microphones and the consequent fussing over precise gain settings. Furthermore, by adjusting the MS ratio I’d be able to control the perspective of the sound I was recording relative to the sonic backdrop of its environment.

So the rig for this project consisted of a Nagra V 24/96 hard disk recorder, a Schoeps MS microphone system with pistol grip and Rycote windscreen, Beyer DT250 headphones (the low impedance 80Ω version for greater SPL from battery operated equipment), a Manfrotto 001 collapsible lightweight microphone stand, and 20m of Mogami 2930 stereo microphone cable. This all packed snugly into a Targus CV1001 sports backpack, initially designed for carrying a laptop computer and accessories and measuring just 45cm x 35cm x 30cm. After a couple of minutes with a scalpel, everything fitted nicely.

The recording kit, from left to right: Manfrotto 001 collapsible microphone stand, Schoeps/Rycote MS microphone system, Nagra V (rear) and 20-metre Mogami cable (front), short Mogami break-out cable (front), Beyer DT250/80 headphones (middle) and furry windjammer (rear).
Recording prayer flags at Gyatsola Pass, 5220m above sea level, Tibet. (pic: Alistair Bray)

GAIN SETTING

If you’re making a stereo recording using any technique that relies on a matched pair of microphones, it’s crucial that the gain is set correctly for each channel or else the resulting stereo image will be off-centre. The MS technique, however, is forgiving because a gain mismatch won’t cause the centre image to shift to one side. Furthermore, the balance of M and S can be adjusted to achieve the desired stereo image after the recording has been made. Nonetheless, it is wise to have a reference monitoring balance (where the M and S signals both have the same overall gain) as a starting point, especially while positioning the microphones. To do that, you must take into account the sensitivity of each microphone.

For the rig I used to make these recordings, the Schoeps cardioid capsule has a sensitivity of 13mV/Pa, while the bi-directional capsule is only 10mV/Pa. This means the bi-directional capsule requires 2.2dB [20 x log (13/10) = 2.2dB] more gain to match the cardioid. I could’ve set this difference on the Nagra V’s input gain controls and locked the controls together so they tracked each other up and down (a feature of the Nagra V that works very well), but in practice I felt more comfortable keeping the two gains matched at all times and making up the 2.2dB difference in mastering. For correct monitoring on location, I reduced the level of the M channel in the Nagra V’s MS decoding matrix by 2dB, which brought me close enough to the correct MS balance to provide a decent point of reference.

KATHMANDU AND THE GANDHARBAS

Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, was the first stop of my journey. I arrived in mid-October, unknowingly in time for the Dusain Festival where thousands of animals are sacrificed throughout the country, their throats cut and their blood poured out for good luck. In certain areas of the city, such as Durbar Square where mass sacrifices take place to appease the bloodthirsty Hindu Goddess Durga, the gutters literally ran with blood. Unfortunately, I didn’t record the sounds of this ritual…

Animal sacrifices notwithstanding, I made many recordings in and around Kathmandu including rickshaw rides, monks reciting mantras, and the evening sounds of the city from the roof of my hotel. But what really caught my attention were the musicians walking the streets playing fiddle-like instruments known as ‘sarangi’. These musicians belonged to the Gandharba caste, one of the untouchable castes in Nepal. Formerly known as Gaines, Gandharbas were traditionally Nepal’s musical messengers, travelling from village to village spreading news through song and dance – rather like the troubadours of medieval Europe.

I eventually found myself enjoying a private concert of music, song and dance in the offices of the Gandharba Culture & Art Organization. After negotiating a price, I arranged two recordings. The first was a concert in the Balaju Water Garden in Kathmandu; it was outdoors music, so I figured it should be recorded outdoors. The Balaju Water Garden is located on the side of a hill, with a partially-enclosed stage at the top that we had reserved for the performance. The musicians, myself, and a handful of backpacking friends arrived at the chosen time, paid the appropriate fees, and trotted up the hill to our stage, only to find an Indian family using it for a wedding. They had also paid for it, and, of course, the guard at the gate was nowhere to be found when I went for a refund. Scoundrel! Moving back down the hill, I found a cut-out that formed a natural amphitheatre and made the recording there, set against the milieu of motorbikes and crows that characterize an autumn afternoon in Kathmandu.

The second Gandharba recording took place in the basement of the Manang Hotel, one of the quietest places I could find in Kathmandu. This was a makeshift direct-to-stereo studio session with tablecloths hung from the ceiling and cushions over the floor to control the acoustics. Thanks to the enthusiasm of the Manang’s kitchen staff the recording turned out quite well, although the low ceiling made it unavoidably ‘roomier’ than I would’ve liked.

HEART OF THE JUNGLE

Royal Chitwan National Park lies in the Terai region, in the southern part of Nepal. ‘Chitwan’ means ‘jungle heart’ in Nepali, and it is classic jungle territory with winding rivers, marshy swamps, tall grasslands and hardwood forests. Tigers, leopards, rhinos, crocodiles, monkeys, deer, pythons and cobras all roam free here. There are many lodges, but only a few are located inside the park itself. This location was important because I wanted to record the dusk and dawn sounds of the jungle, and therefore needed to be immersed in it. After a bit of research I chose Temple Tiger Jungle Lodge because it was situated on the edge of a forested area that formed a junction with swamp and grassland – the three different environments I wanted to record in. It was remote enough from civilization to require an electricity generator, but they only ran it for a couple of hours every morning and evening. With careful planning I was able to keep the Nagra V’s batteries charged while also making useful recordings without the sound of a generator running in the background.

After enduring five hours of Hindi music blaring through torn drivers in a local Tata bus and one hour in a whining jeep stuck in third gear, I took a tranquil 20 minute river crossing in a dugout canoe followed by a thrilling scramble through tall grasslands while standing in the back of a 4WD utility. Moments after entering the hardwood forest I found myself at Temple Tiger Jungle Lodge and immediately started recording – elephants pushing their way through tall grass and deep water (known as ‘elephant rafting’), swamps at dusk and dawn, rhinos having territorial disputes, dew drops falling from leaf to leaf in the early morning mist, fish leaping out of the water to catch low-flying insects, and copious birds going about their daily lives.

Many of these sounds, such as the beautifully forlorn ‘quacks’ (for lack of a better description) of Ruddy Shellducks 100m down the river, were both low level and distant. Turning up the gain resulted in a lot more noise, while trying to get closer caused them to fly further away. After chasing them up and down the length of the river three or four times, I considered sneaking up through the 2m high grass along the river bank, which would allow me to get less than 10m away. I abandoned that idea on the advice of my bemused guide, which amounted to a single non-negotiable headshake. I was thinking ‘Dr Livingston’; I presume he was thinking ‘tiger’. I now understand why nature sound recordists use high gain directional microphones…

Recording a street musician at the foot of a hill below the Anti-British Museum, Gyantse, Tibet. Note the Rycote windshield jostling for position between curious locals at the bottom of the pic. (pictures: Alistair Bray)
Listening back to the recording. (pictures: Alistair Bray)

NO LAPTOP?

Many people, including some musician travellers I met in Nepal, asked why I wasn’t using a laptop to make the recordings. It would’ve been much cheaper than the Nagra V, and on the surface it seems a much more sensible thing to do. But in reality, a laptop computer is a huge liability for making the spontaneous direct-to-stereo style recordings I was making. The problems are a) too many bits and pieces to string together before it’s ready to use; b) too long to boot up before it’s ready to record; c) poor battery life; and d) poor overall durability. In comparison, the system I carried was very rugged and always ready to record within 30 seconds, each and every time. It was all permanently connected inside the backpack, so all I had to do was unzip, pull out the microphones and headphones, and turn on the Nagra V (which remained in the backpack). Nothing could be faster or simpler! And with 10 hours of battery life, I could actually leave the Nagra V turned on inside the backpack during my wanderings around the streets and it would be ready to record immediately… [For more arguments against the use of laptops, see my First Word in issue 33, ‘Absent without leave of your senses’.]

RECORDING IN TIBET

The highlight of this recording journey was my visit to Tibet, a rare destination that’s far more scenically breathtaking than a travel brochure or book could ever imply. Colder, too. Apart from being a photographer’s paradise, the harsh landscape and the complexity of Tibetan culture make it a rich source of sounds for the field recordist.

The Tibetan people have a child-like fascination with sound recording technology, giving rise to a phenomenon I called the Tibetan Mass Magnet – whenever I pointed the microphone at anyone or anything, I’d soon be surrounded by a mass of curious Tibetans. The number was generally proportional to the population density of the area, but even in the middle of absolutely nowhere, such as a stretch of frozen desert along the Friendship Highway, nomads popped out from under rocks when the microphone appeared. Passing the headphones around was always a crowd pleaser and a great way to break down language barriers. Considering the state of those nomads, I’m surprised I didn’t get lice. I still scratch my head in wonder every time I think about it…

TIBETAN IDOL

It’s a little known fact that Tibetans love to sing and dance. One special recording took place in the town of Lhatse, en route to Lhasa (the capital of Tibet). I was staying in a roadside guesthouse, and the woman running the kitchen sung as she cooked food and washed dishes. It was a charming sound, and I wanted to record it in all its unstaged beauty – pots, pans and everything. So I waited for nightfall, crept up beside the kitchen door, held out the microphone and attempted to capture her singing. It is normal practice in regional Tibet to throw dirty water out the nearest door or window. In my attempts to avoid it I slipped on the ice caused by previously discarded water, skated into the side of our 4WD and landed on my butt in the freshly-made mud. When she stepped out to apologise, I dusted myself off and made a hasty retreat to the street. Here I met some teenage girls who were curious about what I was doing with headphones, a microphone, and a frozen muddy backside. When one of them took a listen she instantly transformed into a pop star, clutching the headphones to her ears and hogging the microphone while singing and dancing. Her friends sometimes harmonized in the background, but they mostly giggled and popped bubblegum. One of them left and returned with the singing woman from the kitchen, and to my delight she joined in.

THE MS TECHNIQUE

Of all the stereo microphone techniques available, MS is unique because it does not rely on an identical pair of microphones, aimed left and right, to capture a stereo signal. Rather, MS uses one microphone aimed at the centre of the sound field to capture the ‘mid’, or M, signal, and another microphone aimed 90 degrees to the left of centre to capture the ‘side’, or S, signal. The M microphone determines the overall stereo pickup of the system and can be any polar response the engineer prefers, but the S microphone must be a bi-directional. The two microphones are configured as a coincident pair so that sounds arrive at both capsules simultaneously. Figure one shows an MS pair using a cardioid M microphone.

Obviously, one microphone aimed at the centre and one aimed to the side won’t produce a very convincing stereo image. So how does it work? The secret to the MS technique lies in the way the stereo signal is extracted, or ’decoded’, from the M and S signals. The process is simple: the left channel is created by adding the S signal to the M signal, while the right channel is created by subtracting the S signal from the M signal. To put it mathematically, L = M + S and R = M – S. Figure two shows the equivalent microphone polar response for the left channel, when the M and S signals are added together at equal quantities – it looks like a cardioid with a small lobe at the rear (almost a hypercardioid), angled about 60 degrees to the left. Figure three shows the equivalent microphone polar response for the right channel, when the S signal is subtracted from the M signal at equal quantities – it’s the mirror image of the left channel. So an MS pair using a cardioid for the M channel is similar to coincident hypercardioids crossed at about 120 degrees, as shown in figure four.

Why not use a coincident pair of hypercardioids and avoid all this decoding? Because MS offers a number of advantages over a standard coincident pair. Firstly, it allows the width of the stereo image to be adjusted before, during or after the recording by altering the relative levels of the M and S signals (known as the ‘MS ratio’). Secondly, because the S signal in the right channel is a reverse polarity version of the S signal in the left channel, it cancels out when summed to mono, leaving only the M signal. For this reason, the MS technique is often praised for its mono compatibility. Thirdly, because sounds in the centre of the stereo image are directly on-axis to the M microphone, the MS system always produces a well-defined centre image – a big advantage over other coincident techniques where a sound in the centre arrives off-axis to two microphones and therefore requires precise gain matching and excellent off-axis responses.

The best way to decode the stereo signal from MS is to use an MS decoder. This could be a dedicated hardware box, an internal function of a mixing console or location recorder, or a plug-in running on a DAW. Without such a decoder it can be done using three channels of a mixing console, but it’s fiddly to set up and maintain, and, as a consequence, rarely works as well as a proper decoder.

CROWD CONTROL

During my travels around Lhasa I often passed a busy street corner where half a dozen monks performed a mantra involving chanting, ringing bells and handclapping. Apart from being very catchy, I liked the way it contrasted an ancient Tibetan tradition against the sounds of a modern Chinese city. So I showed up with my recording rig and, after gesturing my intention and placing a reasonable offering in their bowl, proceeded to set up. They were sitting cross-legged, side by side, in a small arc following the curve of the street corner. After considering the width of the ensemble and the impression I wanted to create of them competing against the traffic noise, I positioned myself a couple of meters away on the other side of the footpath.

As I was setting up the monks stopped, mid-chant. I thought I may have offended them, but as soon as I was ready to record they started the entire mantra from the beginning – all 50 minutes of it! I only wanted five minutes worth, but felt obliged to record all of it because they had started again specifically for me. Had I known I was going to be sitting motionless for 50 minutes, I would’ve brought the microphone stand. My left arm, which was holding the microphones, was aching by the end of it.

When Tibetans aren’t performing, they love to help. As the recording above proceeded, numerous pedestrians passed through the space between the monks and the microphones. Most would stop to look, and I’d politely gesture for them to move away from the microphones’ axis. A handful of kids who were begging on the same corner noticed this, and before long I had my own Tibetan crowd control, directing people away from the microphones and helping to keep them quiet. When the mantra was finished I thanked the monks, paid my new-found assistants for their help and stumbled back to my room; a gaping hole in my wallet, my legs stiff and sore, and my left arm hanging limp by my side. I was as happy as a yak in a lush green pasture.

ON RETURNING…

I captured a lot of interesting sounds during my recording journey through the Himalayas, but the project was cut short due to an infection that made me deaf in my right ear for three weeks (a scary prospect for an audio guy). Having listened back to the recordings since then, I have nothing but praise for the equipment – which is more than I can say about my ears! The Schoeps microphones and Nagra V preamps always produced a convincingly natural sound with superb stereo imaging, very impressive over loudspeakers and spookily three-dimensional when heard through closed-cup headphones. Apart from some predictable problems with the condenser microphones due to the heavy morning mist in Royal Chitwan National Park, the rig performed flawlessly for the entire three months of the journey, whether it was bumping around in buses, jumping up and down in the back of jeeps, rattling along in rickshaws, or ‘floating’ on frozen lakes.

There are many things I have not discussed here, such as the ethics of paying the performers, the question of who owns the rights to the recordings, and the political, religious and cultural limitations imposed in different places – all of which presented challenges to overcome. Nonetheless, it was definitely worth the effort. I’m returning in November to continue the project, this time hopefully visiting Bhutan, Ladakh and Mongolia. I think I’ll be taking the same rig with me…

Recording pilgrims circumambulating Bouddhanath Stupa, Kathmandu, Nepal. (pic: Sherap Gyaltso)
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